S03 Episode 119 | STATE OF FASHION + SEARCHING FOR THE NEW LUXURY

In episode 119, Kestrel welcomes José Teunissen, the Dean of the School of Design and Technology at London College of Fashion, and a Professor of Fashion Theory, to the show. José is also the curator of State Of Fashion 2018 | searching for the new luxury, an exhibition that recently opened in Arnhem, Netherlands, and runs through July 22nd, 2018.

"Primarily, I also think this time period will be - it's a paradigm shift, probably a big paradigm shift - maybe it's only the start of it, but I think we are definitely in a period where we start to redefine what fashion is." 
-José Teunissen, Curator of State Of Fashion 2018


STATE OF FASHION


In this episode, José shares more context on her past experiences with fashion, and how she became intrigued with fashion theory at an early age through exploring the way fashion can reflect a snapshot of culture in different time periods. 

Additionally, José explains the approach to this year's State Of Fashion event, and how she and her team wanted to "search for the new luxury" to uncover potential options that could become future solutions. 

For José, the fashion industry has lost a bit of control as well as its cultural meaning, and instead has become a system to give people more opportunities to buy new things all the time. State Of Fashion wants to redefine what fashion is, what values it can offer us, and the luxury it can offer us, to be more aligned with the current culture and moment we live in now.

The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat:

  • Anne Hollander, American historian whose writing provided new insights into the history of fashion and costume and their relation to the history of art, an author José was interested in during her earlier explorations of fashion theory
  • Elizabeth Wilson, author who wrote about the importance of the aesthetic in modern life, another writer José studied and read in her earlier explorations of fashion theory
  • ArtEZ, famous fashion program in Arnhem
  • Vin + Omi, "we are not just a fashion label, we are an ideology"
  • Masters Of Change, a group of young designers selected through an open call for State Of Fashion 2018
  • State Of Fashion Manifesto
  • Iris van Herpen, a pioneer in using 3D printing as a garment construction technique, featured at State Of Fashion 2018
  • Elisa van Joolen, has an interactive installation project at State Of Fashion 2018, which explores questions around the relationships we have with our clothing and the value we associate with these garments
  • Bruno Pieters, focuses on transparency and shares all the stories of his supply chain through his web platform, featured at State Of Fashion 2018
  • Space and Matter, architects who designed the State Of Fashion 2018 exhibition space

WHATABOUTERY | Snapshot of State Of Fashion Event


In the intro, you can hear a snapshot of some of the conversations that took place at the first Whataboutery focused on #agency at State Of Fashion 2018. If you want to learn more about the designers / researchers highlighted, links to their work are below:

Vin of Vin+Omi >

Matti Liimatainen of Self-Assembly >

Elisa van Joolen of Portal >

Mia Morikawa of 11:11 >



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